Start with precut wood planks from cooking stores. Or go to a lumber store and ask for untreated, furniture-grade boards that are kiln-dried. Cedar, cherry, hickory, pecan, maple, apple and alder work best. You'll need 1 in. thick wood cut to fit your grill.
- Soak planks in water for 3-4 hrs. This helps create an aromatic smolder and slows the burning process of the wood. Heat a gas grill to 375-400 degrees. (If using charcoal, let coals burn until covered with white ash.) Place one wet plank on grill rack, cover, and let char for about 10-15 min.
- Toss slices of onion, zucchini and sweet bell pepper in olive oil, kosher salt, coarsely ground black pepper and a pinch or 2 of dried thyme. Flip charred plank and place vegetables on it. Place second wet plank on rack. Grill vegetables, covered, until tender and lightly charred, about 25 min. Meanwhile, drizzle fish with olive oil. Shower with salt, pepper, 1 tsp. coarsely ground celery seed, and the juice of a fresh lemon.
- When the second plank has charred about 15 min., flip it, and place the fish skin side down on it. Close grill cover.
- Grill until fish is cooked through and reaches 135 degrees at the thickest part, or when it flakes easily with a fork. A 6-8 oz. 1/2 in. thick fillet takes about 6-8 min. Slide a wide metal spatula between the skin and the flesh. The skin will stick to the plank, allowing the fillet to lift easily. Discard planks after use.
- For more flavor add 1 c. of citrus juice, apple juice or wine to the soaking water.
- Keep a water bottle handy to tame sudden flare ups.
- Go for sturdier fish when grilling or planking. Trout, salmon, bluefish, swordfish and wild striped bass are tasty and sustainable choices.
- Resist the urge to flip the fish; just let it be.
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